Archive for June, 2007

O Romeo, Romeo! Wherefore art thou Romeo?

Why in Verona, of course!

And that’s where I was from 30-31 May.

Verona may be famous for many things, such as its Opera House, but most people flock to the city because of its legendary inhabitants, none other than the ill-fated young lovers, Romeo and Juliet. That these two people were the fictitious creations of Shakespeare has not stopped the city from capitalising on their fame. Granted, the play was based on a lot of historical truth, such as the savage family feuding, and there really were Montagu (Montecchi) and Capulet (Capuleti) families.

The Bard never actually stepped foot in Italy, yet many of his plays are set there, such as “The Merchant of Venice”, “Julius Caesar”, and, with particular relevance to this post, “The Two Gentlemen of Verona” and “Romeo and Juliet”.

Anyway, the star attraction of Verona is La Casa di Guilietta, otherwise known as Juliet’s House. It is one of the most-visited places in the whole of Italy. This house, dating back to the 12th century, did in fact belong to the Dal Cappello family, so there is some truth in that. However, many changes were made when the house was used as a set in George Cukor’s 1936 film version of the play. Chief amongst those was the addition of the balcony:

Juliet’s house and balcony

As my excellent tour guide pointed out, it shouldn’t be called Juliet’s balcony but rather Juliet’s tomb since it’s actually a sarcophagus which they’ve used! A little-known and unpublicised fact ;) . You heard it HERE!

In the courtyard (to the left of the photo above) stands a bronze statue of Juliet. The right breast and arm are very shiny – according to popular myth, rubbing them will bring you luck. Lord knows how THAT myth came about – the statue was only made in the 1960s… But, for a photo’s sake, sometimes ya gotta do the touristy thing. So here’s me feeling Juliet up:

Me feeling Juliet up

Now don’t I feel a right tit! HAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!! :D

The other charming custom they have here is scribbling love graffiti on the walls, and affixing love notes by means of that classy adhesive, chewing gum. This used to be done on the actual walls of the house, but the town council finally managed to stop this and the walls have now been cleaned up. Instead, those with an uncontrollable urge to deface property can now do so to their heart’s content along the passageway leading up to the courtyard:

Graffiti by Juliet’s House

Little do most of these seekers of immortality realise but the “walls” are actually plasterboards which get removed every few weeks or so with new ones being put up to replace them.

In case the desire ever grabs you, you can in fact write to Juliet, and I do believe she sends replies:

Dear Juliet…

She is also available on email, I kid you not. Write to Juliet at info@julietclub.com. For more information, check out The Juliet Club and read an article on a book that the Club has put together.

Something I tried to do wherever I went in Italy was to find any remnants of a Jewish presence in a particular place. Jews have lived in Italy for many many centuries. But the history of the Jews in Italy has been a very turbulent one, with expulsions, ghettos and the Inquisition. Venice, for example, has the dubious honour of having created the first official ghetto in the early 15th century.

Ghettoes were enforced in most places, especially where the Church held sway. Ghetto walls started coming down with the arrival of Napoleon in the early 1800s, but it was only in 1870 when Italy was finally united as an independent country in its own right that all the ghettoes were finally disbanded. Even though Jews once lived all over the country in numerous towns and cities, nowadays not many remain, only an estimated 30,000 who mainly reside in Rome and Milan.

Usually the only Jewish traces I can find are synagogues. Verona’s Jewish community only numbers around 100 members. But they do have a beautiful shul which I managed to view. The Rabbi working in the office kindly let me in and allowed me to view the shul which is only used occasionally (on the Sabbath and holy days, I think):

Verona Synagogue

Verona is actually a very old city, dating back to at least Roman times. Just outside the historical centre of the city, the ancient Romans built a large amphitheatre in the 1st century CE. In those days it was the site of gladitorial combats, the central area (“harena”) being covered in sand to absorb the blood of gladiators and animals. This pink marble building, imaginatively called the Roman Arena, is the 3rd largest Roman amphitheatre in existence. Its very well-preserved state (minus most of the outer walls) and perfect acoustics have enabled it be transformed into the famous Verona opera house, the Arena, seating about 20,000 people. Rock concerts are also held here:

Roman Arena - Verona Opera House

The Roman Arena overlooks one of the two major piazzas in Verona, Piazza Bra:

Piazza Bra

Piazza delle Erbe lies at the centre of old (historical) Verona:

Piazza delle Erbe

Even statues (okay, performance artists) need to take a smoke-break sometimes:

Smoking statue

I’ll leave you with a lovely view of Verona from across the river:

View of Verona

Loads more photos can be viewed in my Verona web album. Don’t forget to click on Slideshow.

Wishing you all a great weekend!!!

:)

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The hottest guy on Capri!

Tal has allowed me to post one, and only ONE, picture of him on my blog. So I chose the hottest, of course! :)

In May, Tal and I spent a day on the isle of Capri. We were very keen to see the Blue Grotto (Grotta Azzurra) but once we got there, we found out that because the water was too choppy, no rowing boats were allowed in. This was very disappointing as we had been so looking forward to seeing it.

We walked on to a so-called “beach” – nothing more than a concrete slab really next to the rocks and water. There we met this American man, Robert, who was backpacking Europe for a month with his aunt. They too had come to see the Grotto. Being slightly mad (in my opinion), the two guys decided to take a little swim in the very chilly water. Having no swimming shorts with them, they just stripped down to their undies (sorry, I cannot post those photos ;) ) and took a dip. The thought then crossed their minds to make a little side trip along the rocky coast to the Blue Grotto:

Robert and Tal starting off

The intrepid frogmen embarking on their Grotto mission…

The frogmen en route

I hurried along the path above snapping their progress.

Enjoying the swim

Oh what a lovely day for a swim!

Close-up of the froggies

Getting closer… At this stage, the guys started feeling some stings, and the man fishing by the Grotto pointed out to me the jellyfish floating in the water. I shouted to Tal and Robert to beware the jellyfish but it was too late. Tal still has a small scar from where one jellyfish stung him on his abdomen.

What’s this? A sign outside the Blue Grotto… Hmmm… if they’re unable to spell English correctly, I just can’t seriously accept what they’re telling us, can I? ;)

Swimming in the Blue Grotto is forbidden

Here’s what Tal and Robert saw in the Grotto (they had no camera with them in the water obviously – I found this pic on the net):

Inside the Blue Grotto

I was quite sad to be so close to the Grotto but unable to view it.

After Tal and Robert climbed out the water by the entrance to the Grotto, they dashed along the pathway back to the “beach” where they’d started from. I got this cool shot:

Tal and Robert

And finally, here’s Tal after his unauthorised swim:

The hottest guy on Capri

Yummy yummy yummy!!! ) ) )

The four of us after the swim

Here are the four of us after the little adventure. A truly memorable afternoon!

More pictures of Capri to follow soon (I hope)…

:)

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Some highlights from Venice

For almost 5 days, between Friday 25th and Wednesday 30th of May, I was in Venice. (One of those days was spent in Treviso meeting some long-lost cousins.) I have mixed feelings towards Venice. At the time I wasn’t blown away by the city. Maybe this was due to the masses of tourists, or because I was on my own (and missing Tal), could have been the weather, or the fact that a city so obviously full of money doesn’t bother to keep the place looking nice. Yes, the city wasn’t dirty per se, but the buildings generally looked shabby – a lot of faded peeling paint. I know there’s a certain charm to that, but overall it jars with the over-pricedness of the city. And it is a VERY touristy city – the gondolas, for example, are so commercialised. And there aren’t that many wide open piazzas with places to sit. Or that much greenery.

Now, though, looking at the photos I’ve taken, Venice looks really nice :) . Click here to check out my Venice photo album. The easiest way to view the pics is to click on “Slideshow”. Here are some of the highlights:

First view of Venice

Above is my first view of Venice as I came out the train station on Friday afternoon. The weather was sunny, very hot and humid. It was the continuation of the heat wave I had been experiencing in Rome for a few days. I had a shower at 5:30pm, and after walking around Venice for 2 hours I had to have another shower! From Saturday the weather cooled down and then on Sunday it became more overcast and rainy. This continued until Tuesday when the sun made a reappearance.

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Taken on the Ponte Rialto (Rialto Bridge).

Venetian machismo

Venetian machismo :) . There was a lot more machismo in southern Italy – Naples and Sicily.

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Gondolas…

Lion of St Mark

The Lion of St Mark on top of a column in Piazzetta San Marco. The winged lion is the symbol of Venice.

The tide is high…

High tide in Venice.

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Flooding of pavements bordering the Grand Canal.

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I was taking photos of buildings when the guy on the right asked me to take a picture of him and his fellow worker.

Groovy grannies

Groovy grannies!

Finally I found some locals :) . Walking through Venice along the main thoroughfares and piazzas, you can be forgiven for thinking that no locals live here. Venice is chock-a-block full of tourists. And there doesn’t seem to be much place to sit down. But once you wander off the main paths, you find little spots where locals hang out, like below:

Local hangout

On my last day in Venice, I took the ferry from the train station to Piazza San Marco, a journey which lasted half an hour and cost R60 (6 euros). Even if you only take the ferry one stop, you pay the same amount. Everything is SOOOO expensive in Venice! For example, to use an internet cafe in Rome costs between 1-3 euros (R10-R30) per hour, while in Venice it costs 8 euros (R80)!!! Internet cafe usage is my yardstick for measuring prices across cities :) . Below is a view from the ferry travelling down the Grand Canal:

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Ca’ Pesaro – one of the many palaces along the Grand Canal.

When I got to Piazza San Marco (St Mark’s Square), high tide seemed to be the order of the day. There are drains all over the square to allow rising water to bubble through:

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I waited at least 45 minutes to go up to the top of the Campanile (bell tower) in St Mark’s Square. It was well worth the 6 euros (R60) fee, giving magnificent 360-degree views over Venice:

View of Piazza San Marco and Venice from the Campanile

Piazza San Marco is in the foreground. The dark green bits are the flooded parts. By the time I got back down to the bottom, the Piazza was almost completely flooded:

Splish-splashing in San Marco Square!

That’s me having fun splish-splashing! If you wanted to cross the Piazza, you had no choice but to take off your socks and shoes and wade through ankle-high water. It was actually so cool! Especially when the sun came out. Since most of the Piazza was flooded, many cafes were effectively closed. This lead to some sun-bathing time for the waiters… Love the galoshes!!!

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Shops along the Piazza are prepared for the flooding with special doors and seals:

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Well, that should give you a taste of Venice. This has taken me quite a while to do. Rome, where I spent almost 2 weeks, is going to be one major project! So I figure I’ll work on the smaller places first… And with the weather in London forecasted to be rainy, rain, rainy (oh, don’t you just love the English summer!), I think I have my days cut out for me…

:)

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London calling…

I know I know… where are all the blog updates? Well, I have been a little lazy… it’s true. I’m just loving being on holiday! Even in London ;) . Anyway, here’s a post which should keep you busy for a little while…

Believe it or not, I have actually started making an online photo album. It’s of my London trip so far. I find it easier to start with the most recent stuff. Let’s hope I don’t forget the older stuff! Click here to view it. If you have time (and bandwidth), click on the Slideshow link.

Here are some highlights:

Last Sunday Tal and I walked to Primrose Hill from Hampstead. The weather kept alternating between sunny and overcast. Here’s a great picture from the top of Primrose Hill encompassing this contrast:

Primrose Hill

And here’s Tal looking serious ;) :

Tal looking serious

Isn’t he just gorgeous! :) :) :)

We then walked through to Camden, and strolled around Camden Market which was packed. As we were walking along the high street, I spotted a Doc Martens shop. Popping in for a quick look, I spied a pair of boots…

Now, as you may know, London weather is notoriously unpredictable and variable. Well, maybe it’s predictably unpredictable and variable… It’s my fault – I keep expecting it to stay one way (let’s say cool and rainy, or warm and sunny) but then half an hour later it’s changed and I’m cursing myself for forgetting to bring along an umbrella (because it was sunny 5 minutes ago when I left the house) . Or I start to boil as the sun comes out and I’m dressed for winter. Anyway, the point is that when I left South Africa on my spring/summer Europe trip, the only closed shoes I packed were takkies (sneakers/trainers for the non-Sarfafricans out there). After all, it was going to be hot, right? Hmmm….

So now I’m in London and those takkies are looking a bit grubby. The only way to keep warm is to wear stockings with sandals or takkies… Not particularly smart as you can imagine. And then I see these beautiful silver-ish Doc Martens boots:

Silver Doc Martens boots

Perfect! In fact, I’ve been looking for a pair of flat boots for a while… I love the lace-ups but best of all is the zip which makes putting on and taking off a real speedy pleasure!

Yesterday I went to the National Portrait Gallery. Currently on show is the BP Portrait Award 2007, “the most prestigious portrait competition in the world, promoting the very best in contemporary portrait painting”. This is amazing! I loved it! The “Portrait of Christopher Darroux-Xavier” by Rupert Alexander definitely stands out as my favourite, although there are many others which impressed me greatly.

Portrait of Christopher Darroux-Xavier by Rupert Alexander

Which brings me to some very deserved praise of London… all of its museums are free! After spending much time (and money) visiting museums in Italy, I really appreciate what London offers. It means that art is open to anyone and everyone. It was great seeing little school kids sitting and lying on the floor in the Gallery making sketches, drawings and interpretations of the paintings in front of them, with their teacher gently giving guidance and encouraging their creativity.

Afterwards I walked around the corner to Trafalgar Square where I hung out for a bit on a patch of grass. Here’s what happens when punk rockers hit their 40s (or is it 50s?):

Aging punk rockers

Being a rather sunny day yesterday (but cool when it became cloudy), I hit upon a rather ingenious solution as to which shoes to wear:

Shoes and socks

Ha! Who said I wasn’t the epitome of style and fashion!!!

Going slightly off the London topic, some of you diligent followers of my blog may recall my mentioning many moons ago how I planned to stop by the Naot shoe shop in Tel Aviv on my way to Rome at the beginning of my travels. Well, I did as planned. And those really cool funky sandals you see in the picture above are the happy result of that shopping (try picturing them without the socks ;) ). The sandals have been amazing – I have walked and walked and walked all over Italy in them and they are soooo comfortable! True, I did develop some blisters in the beginning but that’s to be expected when wearing new shoes, especially when walking miles and miles day in, day out.

Well, I think that’s probably enough for one post ;) . I love your comments – it’s a great way of keeping in touch. So go wild!

:)

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Loving London (can you believe it?!)

It’s been 6 days since I arrived in London, and I’m really enjoying myself. Could be something to do with the weather (strangely enough, the weather last weekend in London was better than almost 2 weeks in Italy!), the fact that I’m in one place and don’t have to pack my bags every morning, that I can walk down Golders Green high street and know that there are dozens of places I can eat (yum!), that I’m catching up with old friends, that I’m on holiday, and the best of all, that I get to spend lots of time with Tal :)

I know it’s such a British thing to do, but I’d like to talk about the weather… As I complained before, the weather in Italy was really just not up to scratch! I’m sure that the day I left, the sun came blazing out, sticking its tongue out at me. But fortunately London was blessed with a pretty sunny warm weekend. It’s times like these which make one think “Wow! London can be such a nice place to live!”. And while the rest of the week has been mainly overcast, I’ve actually become used to it! But every now and again, the sun comes out and it’s wonderful. Check out what Golders Hill Park looked like last Sunday:

Golders Hill Park

Tal loves parks and loves walking. So he took me along one of his walks through Golders Hill Park, Fenton House and on to Hampstead. It’s strange but I lived here in London for almost 8 months (five years ago) and hardly visited the parks. Which is such a pity because the parks here are stunning, London’s main saving grace.

I’m staying in Golders Green and haven’t ventured out too much. Not really into the touristy thing. But I did go into town yesterday. Walked along Oxford Street, checking out some of the shops, namely H&M. So very different to Italy – a real megacity. Hung out with an old friend, Sean, at his workplace – Foyles Bookshop. Read a really cool graphic novel, Exit Wounds, by an Israeli comic book artist, Rutu Modan.

So what has changed in 5 years? Speaking only for what I’ve observed in Golders Green, there are more kosher restaurants, loads of Polish people, and gypsies.

So far, I’ve eaten at Mattacherry (a new Indian restaurant) and Francescas (Italian), and had some Carmellis bagels (of course ;) ). Tonight I’m going to Met Su Yan who describe themselves as providing “exquisite glatt kosher oriental cuisine”. Yum! Can’t wait! Meeting an old friend, Nadya, there for supper.

Since Poland joined the EU, something like 2 million Poles have come to the UK. And many of them are here in Golders Green. It’s quite ironic the Jews and Poles living side-by-side…

I was very surprised to see gypsies in Golders Green high street. Tal says that it’s something new, maybe only a month or so. Gypsies are all over Italy. You mainly see the women (with babies glued to breasts) and children, begging and harassing people. They don’t seem to do anything else. They’re in your face and quite unpleasant, asking for money like it’s their right to receive and your obligation to give them. There are many many people begging on the streets, some lying prostrate on the ground with their heads down and hands up, many with signs, and quite a few with dogs. But none so aggressive as the gypsies. And I’ve heard stories of gypsy children coming up to people, surrounding them, and picking their pockets. I know it’s not nice to say, but I have no time, no patience and no sympathy for them. When they approach me, I brush them off quickly and abruptly. The ones I’ve seen here in London so far aren’t as aggressive. But I still don’t trust them.

Onto something a bit more cheerful… the days are long with the sun setting around 9:30pm. So it’s light til really late, meaning there’s still so much of the day to enjoy after work. It’s good to be in London in the summertime :)

I’ll keep you posted!

:)

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Just a few quick words from Bologna

Hey there! Got 20 minutes left at this internet cafe in Bologna so I’m dashing off a quick post.

This evening, after a massive downpour which was happening when I arrived in Bologna, I’ve finally seen some blue sky and sun. For at least a week it’s mainly been raining and overcast, and for me quite chilly. This is NOT summer weather!!! And it’s well into June already.

Tomorrow morning I fly to London for 10 days. At least I’m not expecting the weather to be much different from Italy ;) But I’m up for surprises!

Yesterday afternoon and this morning I was in San Gimignano which is the most picturesque little town I’ve been to in Italy. It’s in Tuscany, on a hill, surrounded by lush green rolling hills, tapestried with vineyards and olive groves. The town is really well-preserved, mainly medieval. In fact, it’s a UNESCO World Heritage site. I definitely recommend visiting San Gimignano. A day trip from Florence is fine (it’s only 1.25 hours away by bus), but it’s nicer to stay overnight. After the busloads of tourists leave, it’s really lovely and quiet. And with long days, it’s just beautiful. Everywhere you walk is a charming. And there’s a gelateria (ice cream shop) which is the World Champion! Definitely worth a visit! Yum!

I’ve taken loads of pictures, even if the background is grey skies… When I’m in London, I’ll have plenty time to make online photo albums and share with you my views of Italy.

Bologna is a university town. Full of arched passageways. And I haven’t seen as many scummy-looking people in one place than here! Maybe it’s the grungy, dirty, dreadlocked hair look, but also there are lots of weird, drugged-out looking guys, often harassing you for money. Them and their dogs. They all have dogs.

Anyway, I’m actually very excited to be going to London! Well, mainly to see Tal! I miss him so much, and it’s really not much fun travelling on one’s own. Also, I’m am SOOOO looking forward to being in one place for a while. And being able to eat! It’s really hard keeping kosher in Italy. The plus side is saving lots of money and not putting on weight ;)

Gotta dash!

Check you later from London!

:)

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