London calling…

I know I know… where are all the blog updates? Well, I have been a little lazy… it’s true. I’m just loving being on holiday! Even in London ;) . Anyway, here’s a post which should keep you busy for a little while…

Believe it or not, I have actually started making an online photo album. It’s of my London trip so far. I find it easier to start with the most recent stuff. Let’s hope I don’t forget the older stuff! Click here to view it. If you have time (and bandwidth), click on the Slideshow link.

Here are some highlights:

Last Sunday Tal and I walked to Primrose Hill from Hampstead. The weather kept alternating between sunny and overcast. Here’s a great picture from the top of Primrose Hill encompassing this contrast:

Primrose Hill

And here’s Tal looking serious ;) :

Tal looking serious

Isn’t he just gorgeous! :) :) :)

We then walked through to Camden, and strolled around Camden Market which was packed. As we were walking along the high street, I spotted a Doc Martens shop. Popping in for a quick look, I spied a pair of boots…

Now, as you may know, London weather is notoriously unpredictable and variable. Well, maybe it’s predictably unpredictable and variable… It’s my fault – I keep expecting it to stay one way (let’s say cool and rainy, or warm and sunny) but then half an hour later it’s changed and I’m cursing myself for forgetting to bring along an umbrella (because it was sunny 5 minutes ago when I left the house) . Or I start to boil as the sun comes out and I’m dressed for winter. Anyway, the point is that when I left South Africa on my spring/summer Europe trip, the only closed shoes I packed were takkies (sneakers/trainers for the non-Sarfafricans out there). After all, it was going to be hot, right? Hmmm….

So now I’m in London and those takkies are looking a bit grubby. The only way to keep warm is to wear stockings with sandals or takkies… Not particularly smart as you can imagine. And then I see these beautiful silver-ish Doc Martens boots:

Silver Doc Martens boots

Perfect! In fact, I’ve been looking for a pair of flat boots for a while… I love the lace-ups but best of all is the zip which makes putting on and taking off a real speedy pleasure!

Yesterday I went to the National Portrait Gallery. Currently on show is the BP Portrait Award 2007, “the most prestigious portrait competition in the world, promoting the very best in contemporary portrait painting”. This is amazing! I loved it! The “Portrait of Christopher Darroux-Xavier” by Rupert Alexander definitely stands out as my favourite, although there are many others which impressed me greatly.

Portrait of Christopher Darroux-Xavier by Rupert Alexander

Which brings me to some very deserved praise of London… all of its museums are free! After spending much time (and money) visiting museums in Italy, I really appreciate what London offers. It means that art is open to anyone and everyone. It was great seeing little school kids sitting and lying on the floor in the Gallery making sketches, drawings and interpretations of the paintings in front of them, with their teacher gently giving guidance and encouraging their creativity.

Afterwards I walked around the corner to Trafalgar Square where I hung out for a bit on a patch of grass. Here’s what happens when punk rockers hit their 40s (or is it 50s?):

Aging punk rockers

Being a rather sunny day yesterday (but cool when it became cloudy), I hit upon a rather ingenious solution as to which shoes to wear:

Shoes and socks

Ha! Who said I wasn’t the epitome of style and fashion!!!

Going slightly off the London topic, some of you diligent followers of my blog may recall my mentioning many moons ago how I planned to stop by the Naot shoe shop in Tel Aviv on my way to Rome at the beginning of my travels. Well, I did as planned. And those really cool funky sandals you see in the picture above are the happy result of that shopping (try picturing them without the socks ;) ). The sandals have been amazing – I have walked and walked and walked all over Italy in them and they are soooo comfortable! True, I did develop some blisters in the beginning but that’s to be expected when wearing new shoes, especially when walking miles and miles day in, day out.

Well, I think that’s probably enough for one post ;) . I love your comments – it’s a great way of keeping in touch. So go wild!

:)

Comments (3)

Loving London (can you believe it?!)

It’s been 6 days since I arrived in London, and I’m really enjoying myself. Could be something to do with the weather (strangely enough, the weather last weekend in London was better than almost 2 weeks in Italy!), the fact that I’m in one place and don’t have to pack my bags every morning, that I can walk down Golders Green high street and know that there are dozens of places I can eat (yum!), that I’m catching up with old friends, that I’m on holiday, and the best of all, that I get to spend lots of time with Tal :)

I know it’s such a British thing to do, but I’d like to talk about the weather… As I complained before, the weather in Italy was really just not up to scratch! I’m sure that the day I left, the sun came blazing out, sticking its tongue out at me. But fortunately London was blessed with a pretty sunny warm weekend. It’s times like these which make one think “Wow! London can be such a nice place to live!”. And while the rest of the week has been mainly overcast, I’ve actually become used to it! But every now and again, the sun comes out and it’s wonderful. Check out what Golders Hill Park looked like last Sunday:

Golders Hill Park

Tal loves parks and loves walking. So he took me along one of his walks through Golders Hill Park, Fenton House and on to Hampstead. It’s strange but I lived here in London for almost 8 months (five years ago) and hardly visited the parks. Which is such a pity because the parks here are stunning, London’s main saving grace.

I’m staying in Golders Green and haven’t ventured out too much. Not really into the touristy thing. But I did go into town yesterday. Walked along Oxford Street, checking out some of the shops, namely H&M. So very different to Italy – a real megacity. Hung out with an old friend, Sean, at his workplace – Foyles Bookshop. Read a really cool graphic novel, Exit Wounds, by an Israeli comic book artist, Rutu Modan.

So what has changed in 5 years? Speaking only for what I’ve observed in Golders Green, there are more kosher restaurants, loads of Polish people, and gypsies.

So far, I’ve eaten at Mattacherry (a new Indian restaurant) and Francescas (Italian), and had some Carmellis bagels (of course ;) ). Tonight I’m going to Met Su Yan who describe themselves as providing “exquisite glatt kosher oriental cuisine”. Yum! Can’t wait! Meeting an old friend, Nadya, there for supper.

Since Poland joined the EU, something like 2 million Poles have come to the UK. And many of them are here in Golders Green. It’s quite ironic the Jews and Poles living side-by-side…

I was very surprised to see gypsies in Golders Green high street. Tal says that it’s something new, maybe only a month or so. Gypsies are all over Italy. You mainly see the women (with babies glued to breasts) and children, begging and harassing people. They don’t seem to do anything else. They’re in your face and quite unpleasant, asking for money like it’s their right to receive and your obligation to give them. There are many many people begging on the streets, some lying prostrate on the ground with their heads down and hands up, many with signs, and quite a few with dogs. But none so aggressive as the gypsies. And I’ve heard stories of gypsy children coming up to people, surrounding them, and picking their pockets. I know it’s not nice to say, but I have no time, no patience and no sympathy for them. When they approach me, I brush them off quickly and abruptly. The ones I’ve seen here in London so far aren’t as aggressive. But I still don’t trust them.

Onto something a bit more cheerful… the days are long with the sun setting around 9:30pm. So it’s light til really late, meaning there’s still so much of the day to enjoy after work. It’s good to be in London in the summertime :)

I’ll keep you posted!

:)

Comments (8)

Just a few quick words from Bologna

Hey there! Got 20 minutes left at this internet cafe in Bologna so I’m dashing off a quick post.

This evening, after a massive downpour which was happening when I arrived in Bologna, I’ve finally seen some blue sky and sun. For at least a week it’s mainly been raining and overcast, and for me quite chilly. This is NOT summer weather!!! And it’s well into June already.

Tomorrow morning I fly to London for 10 days. At least I’m not expecting the weather to be much different from Italy ;) But I’m up for surprises!

Yesterday afternoon and this morning I was in San Gimignano which is the most picturesque little town I’ve been to in Italy. It’s in Tuscany, on a hill, surrounded by lush green rolling hills, tapestried with vineyards and olive groves. The town is really well-preserved, mainly medieval. In fact, it’s a UNESCO World Heritage site. I definitely recommend visiting San Gimignano. A day trip from Florence is fine (it’s only 1.25 hours away by bus), but it’s nicer to stay overnight. After the busloads of tourists leave, it’s really lovely and quiet. And with long days, it’s just beautiful. Everywhere you walk is a charming. And there’s a gelateria (ice cream shop) which is the World Champion! Definitely worth a visit! Yum!

I’ve taken loads of pictures, even if the background is grey skies… When I’m in London, I’ll have plenty time to make online photo albums and share with you my views of Italy.

Bologna is a university town. Full of arched passageways. And I haven’t seen as many scummy-looking people in one place than here! Maybe it’s the grungy, dirty, dreadlocked hair look, but also there are lots of weird, drugged-out looking guys, often harassing you for money. Them and their dogs. They all have dogs.

Anyway, I’m actually very excited to be going to London! Well, mainly to see Tal! I miss him so much, and it’s really not much fun travelling on one’s own. Also, I’m am SOOOO looking forward to being in one place for a while. And being able to eat! It’s really hard keeping kosher in Italy. The plus side is saving lots of money and not putting on weight ;)

Gotta dash!

Check you later from London!

:)

Comments (2)

V is for… Venice and Verona

I arrived in Verona this afternoon. What a lovely town! It also helps that the weather started clearing up – it’s been overcast and raining for the past few days.

Last Friday I left Rome and came to Venice. Last week Rome was boiling hot (but not humid thank goodness). Seems like there was a bit of a heatwave not just in Italy but in lots of places in Europe. When I arrived in Venice late afternoon, it wasn’t just hot but mighty humid. After I showered I thought I’d go out for about 2 hours or so and then come back before Shabbos and just have to change into Shabbos clothes. Well, after 2 hours of walking around, I needed another shower!

Saturday was better and then the weather turned, became rainy and overcast and even cold! For me at least. It’s amazing how much the weather can change, literally overnight.

I must say that I wasn’t overly taken with Venice. It’s SOOOO overpriced, and so full of tourists that it doesn’t feel like any locals live there. You don’t even get any free tourist stuff from Information, like a map! That will cost you R20 (2 euros). Rome has plenty free tourist stuff. Apart from a great map, they have booklets with walking tours and art information. Very cool and very useful. Here in Verona the tourist office is also very good.

Maybe I have to get to know Venice better, but I felt like everyone’s on the move all the time, with nowhere really to sit down along the way. Yes, there are places, but it’s the way Venice is structured… Also, quite a lack of greenery. Maybe the weather had something with things.

This morning was actually quite fun. I went down to Piazza San Marco (St Mark’s Square) on the vaporetto (ferry) – only cost R60 (6 euros) (said very sarcastically). It was the first time I took any public transport. Well, there’s not much else but the vaporetto – Venice is composed of many small islands linked by little canals or streets which once were canals. So you walk and walk and walk and walk.

Anyway, I’ve noticed over the past few days that there’s been a lot of water bubbling up through drains in the square. But today was really bad – almost the whole Piazza was flooded! So everyone took off their shoes, hitched up their jeans and skirts, and waded around in mid-calf water. It was quite something. The cafes on the one side of the square were all submerged, so no-one was at them. I got a great pic of 3 waiters in galoshes/knee-high boots just chilling by some tables. It was also so funny seeing the water sloshing against the doors of the shops along the one side of the square. They seem to be used to this.

This afternoon I took a guided walking tour of Verona. Best walking tour I’ve done in Italy. The guide, Andrea, was really knowledgable and shared so many interesting facts. By the way, Verona is the home of Romeo and Juliet, not that they were actual people, but the Capulet and Montague families did really exist. And did really feud.

Tomorrow afternoon I go to Bologna, and then to Florence (Firenze) on Friday. Will be in Florence til Tuesday. Then I’m going to London from Friday 8 June to Monday 18 June! I need to be among friends. It’s been really hard and lonely on my own. What was I thinking! :)

By the way, I have been completely out of touch with what’s been going on in the world. About 2 weeks back I did somehow hear that France had a new leader. And the past 2 nights I’ve had a TV in my room, so I watched BBC and CNN. But it doesn’t seem like I’m missing out on much in the world.

Oh, and my backpack is WAY too heavy… I no longer call what I’m doing “backpacking” – it’s “shlepping” :) . I think I’m going to be leaving some stuff in London and hopefully some kind friend will bring it back to Joburg for me. I only need to lighten things by 2-3 kg to make a significant difference. Thing is, I don’t really know what to leave behind. Almost all my clothes I’ve worn. I think it’s the toiletries. But really, I just don’t know. Maybe once I’ve taken out this little thing and that little thing, they’ll all add up to something noticeable.

Please email me or post comments – I’m all alone here!!! And it’s hard work travelling, believe it or not. Okay, it does beat sitting behind a desk!

Ciao!

:)

Comments (5)

When in Rome…

With 15 minutes left before the internet cafe closes, I thought I’d quickly dash off a post.

Finally, the weather in Rome is really nice and warm, even hot! When I arrived 3 weeks ago, it was very cool, mostly overcast, and rainy at times. Kind of felt a bit like London weather. In fact, at night it got quite cold (for me at least). It didn’t feel much like spring! But since last Tuesday when I came back to Rome (after Napoli), it’s been getting steadily warmer. I’m starting to see how awfully hot summer is going to be in Rome!

Coming back to Rome after Naples was like a big “Ahhh!!!”. Rome is spacious, gracious, green, genteel, and quite orderly (even the traffic). Napoli is frenetic, anarchic, narrow, in-your-face. This is not to say I didn’t like Napoli – I really did! It was such a refreshing change and it has an appeal quite of its own. I’ll have to do it justice in a post all of its own.

Anyway, I’m quite museumed out. I took full advantage of the Italian Cultural Week and packed in all the free stuff I could. And when I said museums are free during the Cultural Week, this includes monuments and things like the Colosseum, ruins, etc. I really put my feet through a tough regimen!

Talking about feet, after the first week of being in Italy, my poor feet were so blistered and aching. I’ve taken photos and will hopefully one day post. And it’s not like I didn’t have a good pair of walking shoes. Now, my feet take the abuse just fine :)

Hope to write again soon.

Ciao!

Comments (2)

Laws of tourist travelling #1

If you happen to exchange a few words, or perhaps chat for a couple of minutes with some fellow tourists, you WILL bump into them again. And again. And sometimes again. In the same town. And even on another day in ANOTHER town.

:)

Comments (3)

Do’s and Don’ts of Italy

  1. Don’t plan to see museums on a Monday. They’re almost always closed. In fact, don’t bother going anywhere on a Monday. Strike Mondays out of your itinerary. If you’re lucky, a park may be open.
  2. Don’t visit small towns between 1-4pm. Shops are closed and you’ll think you’re in a ghost town.
  3. Don’t try figuring out opening and closing times of shops – they’re just too weird. Like 9:35-10:50am, 4:25-7:15pm. Kinda makes you wonder how people actually earn any money.
  4. Do try to learn some Italian before visiting the country. Italians’ grasp of English is tenuous at the best of times, and completely non-existent the rest of the time.
  5. Do not confuse “cane” (dog) with “carne” (meat), otherwise you’ll find yourself amusing the locals when you tell them that the eating of dog in South Africa is very good.
  6. Don’t try ordering food in Italian when it’s been a long day and you’re very tired. Otherwise you’ll ask for gnocchi and tomato sauce without “pomeriggio” (afternoon) instead of “formaggio” (cheese).
  7. Do find out about airline strikes BEFORE you get to the airport.
  8. When packing, DO NOT add that little something “just in case” and because it weighs so little. All those little somethings add up to stones on your back.
  9. As a man, if you want to look cool, do wear a suit jacket, jeans and takkies (sneakers). Smart Italian shoes also do the trick. Oh yes, and dark sunglasses. At night.
  10. If you’re Italian, do show pride in your wonderful heritage by covering every available surface with graffitti. Afterall, you gave the world the word… Don’t be shy. Don’t limit yourself to train stations, train carriages, every wall and lamppost. Those marble statues and monuments are just begging for your name to be scrawled upon them. Oh, you don’t need my encouragement? No, you’ve been there, done that.
  11. Do visit Italy, particularly Rome, during Italian Cultural Week. 8 days when most museums are free! You’ll save yourself hundreds of Rands. Of course, this only applies if you like museums…

And yes, there is a story behind each one :) To be revealed in the future.

Comments (2)

Finally!!!!!!!

Yes yes yes! It finally happened! I’m writing my first blog post in Italy… I am SOOO sorry it’s taken so long. Travelling is hard work you know ;)

So lemme quickly fill you in. I’m back in Rome. The first 2 weeks went by according to plan (see my itinerary). Got loads of photos which I need to sort out and upload. Tal went back to London on Sunday :( So I’m all on my lonesome (sniff sniff). I know you’re all feeling really sorry for me, all alone in Rome…

I’m here for another week. First, it’s just so nice to not have to move around with a backpack. Second, it’s Shavuot next week, so I needed to be somewhere close to a shul. And third, well, there’s just so much to see in Rome…

Now that you all know I’m still alive and haven’t fallen down some black hole, I’m going to write a few posts with different themes or ideas. I just can’t see myself writing you a day-by-day, blow-by-blow account of the past 2.5 weeks… One day is long enough!!!

Comments (8)

So much for warm sunny Italy…

Since it’s spring in Italy, I just assumed the weather would be warm to hot, and sunny. It is a Mediterranean country after all.

Thought I’d better check out Weather.com to see what I can expect over the next week or two…. And it’s rain, rain and more rain! And temperatures not much different from Joburg.

I’m so depressed… and I just bought blockout sunscreen… Yes, yes, it’ll get warmer and sunnier… by the end of May only!

A miserable Meira…

:(

Comments (6)

Jarred’s Woolies rant

Since I’m quite busy at the moment (I’m sure you can understand what with 2 days to go before I leave), I thought I’d share with you my friend and colleague Jarred’s email rant to Woolworths which he sent on Monday. I’ve reprinted it below. It had me in chuckles for ages! :)

Please check his site for the responses to the letter as well as updates.

Dear Woolies

I have really had enough of your ridiculous stock problems. For a few months now, I have borne with the outrageous range of items which your stores are out of.

I shop at Woolworths often, and at several of your stores in the northern suburbs. I also tend to shop later in the evening, for which you conveniently cater by keeping the stores open till 8 or even 9.

However, by the time I get there at 7:30, the store looks like it’s been the target of a rampaging mob of Somalian looters.

Example of shopping for ingredients from a simple recipe:
Fresh Mint (out of stock)
Marrows (out of stock)
Fresh Ginger (out of stock)
Sweet Potatoes (out of stock)

Hello? I’m not asking for freshly picked truffles or partially scrubbed Betelgeusian sea cucumber. Sweet potatoes??!!

Which is to say nothing about the fact that you have been out of stock of tuna fish, pink salmon and tinned lentils for so long I could have bred five generations of my own tuna in my kitchen sink, feeding them on nothing but freshly picked lentils from my own vegetable garden.

You are a premium supermarket with premium prices. Where else does one have the opportunity to pay R40 for a punnet of strawberries? Or R6 for one avocado pear? There are families of avocado sellers along the road to Mpumalanga that would be able to retire to the comfort of their Camps Bay home, or at least educate their children, if they could persuade passers by to pay them that kind of fee.

Nonetheless, I have cheerfully paid your obscene prices for two reasons: quality and range. Quality, in general, is good. Everything looks like it has been hand polished on the thighs of the finest Saudi Arabian concubines. Range has now become a matter of statistical probability rather than any kind of certainty. I need to leave the house with 5 recipes in hand, along with a worn copy of the Bible, equipping me with both choice and prayer, to stand even a remote chance of being able to cook myself dinner that evening. And being an atheist, this is a LOT of ask.

Your management seem at best bewildered, at worst uninterested. “We have a new stock system, please bear with us”, the one told me. That was about two months ago after the fourth Woolworths in Sandton was out of stock of potatoes. I am tired of bearing with you. I’m tired of seeing up-ended black vegetable containers and dishonest “temporarily” out of stock notices all over your stores.

If you can’t get the plants to bear fruit or play your part in over-fishing the oceans for the benefit of whinging middle-class citizens such as myself, perhaps you should go back to simply selling clothes? Raymond Ackerman has a lovely book called something about Four Legs of the Table which I used to think was useful only as a way to start the braai on which to cook my Woolworths line fish, but I’m beginning to think someone over there should give it a read. Perhaps he knows where you can buy potatoes.

I don’t know. But I expect the situation to improve immediately. If I have to suffer the indignity of changing to my local Pick ‘n Pay or Spar, I’m not going to be in a forgiving mood.

Yours

Jarred Cinman

Comments (1)

« Newer Posts · Older Posts »